PART II THE NARROW ROADWAYS OF IRELAND

Westport, County Mayo

     Westport was a great little town where we had lunch in a little pub then shopped!  This was actually the only time we girls shopped.  I still carry the lovely turquoise bag I bought in Westport, Ireland.

     We headed south from Westport towards the Cliffs of Mohr, a grand tourist attraction that is way out on the western coast.  There are some real highways in Ireland where you can drive in the 65 mph zone (of course it's kilometers there, so about 80k).  We were able to take advantage of the highway for most of this drive, quite the exciting time.  The Cliffs are spectacular, with a trail that follows the coast and eventually heads inland to connect many of the small towns in the area.  The tourists all clomp along this trail for about one-half mile.

Ennis, Clare County

     Back on the road we needed a cappuccino break and found the adorable town of Ennis in County Clare.  County designation is very important in Ireland - I never asked why, but it's probably helpful information to have.

   
      We were now headed for the town of Adare to the Dunraven Arms Hotel.  Adare is one of the most charming Irish towns we visited. The highlight for me was finding the scone of my dreams at the Dunraven Arms.*  Breakfast was a grand affair with tiered baskets of breads, friendly waiters and a sunlit dining room, reserved for breakfasts.  Adare has a block (btw do not ask directions in blocks - they do not know what you're talking about) of thatched-roofed buildings that are very "fairy-tale'ish" and obviously a gimmick for the tourists.  I was completely captivated. 

*Okay, back to the scones.  Everyone knows that the very best scone in the world can be found at the Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art in Kansas City.  I had been trying to get that recipe for about 10 years, and made it a point to always sample other scones, wherever and whenever, just in case.  Well the scones at the Dunraven Arms were the same recipe!  I'm sure of it.  I called the manager over and asked if I could possibly get the recipe and he happily agreed to email it to me.  Well, lo and behold, a few weeks after returning I received the recipe, written in code, unfortunately, with symbols like 3kg flour and 550g of caster sugar?  Guess I'll just go to the Nelson.

My favorite sign ever.  Found in Adare.

     From Adare we headed to Dingle, and lunched in a pub near the water.  We were definitely on a mission at this point, making quick ins and outs to the "must see" spots.  

The only photo I have from the Dingle Peninsula is of some kayakers.

     Onward to Killarney on the Kerry Peninsula.  We had reservations at the stately Lake Hotel that is situated beautifully on the Lakes of Killarney, a series of connecting lakes with names like Lough Lein, Muckross Lake, and Castlelough Bay.  The central portion of the hotel is original and most likely dates to the early 1900s.  It has been added onto in various directions, not as well planned as it could have been.  The hotel has been in the same family since the 1940s.
     We made friends with the bartender the first day and planned our excursions using the hotel concierge.

Ned, the bartender at the Lake Hotel

      There is much to do in Killarney but we only had one day so we chose to hike the Dunloe Gap,

about 7 miles, then take the little boats back to the ruins of Ross Castle.  It was a gray and windy day on the Gap, at times so windy you could stand at a slant and not fall over.  A few people chose to drive this narrow road, we had no respect for them at all.  The Gap is a rocky area with a stream running through it and some spectacular views as you reach elevation.

 You wind up at a little outdoor eatery where you catch the small boats.  The boat ride was chilly but lovely just the same.  The sun peeked out a few times, but we were quite happy to get to Ross Castle and head back to the hotel.

Tooling through Upper Lake which feeds into Middle Lake then Lower Lake (Lough Lien)

     One last tourist attraction we visited in Killarney was Mockross Castle, actually the gardens at the Castle.  Amazing gigantic hydrangeas and odd ferns.

Beautiful gardens and a pleasant morning before getting back in the, now beat-up, little rental car and heading for  Dublin.
     Back in Dublin we wanted to see the Book of Kells, which is kept in the Trinity Old Library,

Trinity College.  We stayed a few blocks from Trinity and walked the area known as Temple Bar.    A very wonderful time was had in Ireland.  I felt like I got to see the majority of the country, 10 days does not do it justice, but I'm not sure I could take the driving again.  There were times as trucks came barreling at us on the narrow roadway, that I just closed my eyes and hoped for the best.  One tip that our friend gave us became my mantra -- on the roundabouts -- keep left but turn right.   Buy the full coverage insurance.

Lovely  people, lovely time.